Day 20 - Return to U.S.

Wed., May 22, 2013

It's over!  Our huge, action-packed, fun-filled, exciting, educational tour of Russia et al is over so soon.

We are the last to leave the hotel (with the exception of a couple spending an extra day).  We have a few adventures remaining in the next 24 hours though:

• Several hours at the Helsinki airport, where there are no overhead announcements for flights or missing passengers.  They just seem to know when to show up and are sooo polite!
• Connecting flight in Frankfurt, complete with drama of an American in the next line over who's having a fight with the security police over something.  At least we didn't have to walk two miles this time to the next plane.
• An endless flight back to Dulles but without the terrible turbulence we had over Greenland going over.
• Standing in the re-entry line for an hour+ to get back into the U.S.... and waiting and standing and waiting...
• Finally released!  Except our luggage isn't here. 
• Finding our luggage had been put with that checked to Tampa.  Ooops.  Another 45 minute delay.
• Collapsing at the hotel for an short overnight stay before tomorrow's early AM flight back to Tampa.  

So for now, Do svidaniyaght ('til our next meeting)... maybe in another three years?

Day 19 - Helsinki

Tues., May 21, 2013

As part of our package, we were provided a free transportation pass today.  It will take us anywhere in Helsinki we wish to go via ferry, bus, or trolley.  Based on our program director's recommendation, we chose to start with a short ferry ride to Suomenlinna, a fortress built on six islands and dating back to the 1700's.

The fortress's church

 

In and around -- I think we were just tired and skipped parts of this huge UNESCO World Heritage site (unfortunately)

 

We also used our pass to ride the trolley on its entire city loop.  Although Helsinki is interesting, it feels like just another big city by now.  The real fun is people-watching!

 

When we returned, we were starving and opted for lunch at the Market Square, where I had reindeer meat balls (I'm sorry, Rudolph!).  Paul opted for seafood. 

 

 

Our Helsinki hotel

Spartan but green-friendly.  Everything must be recycled.

 

One last toast by our Program Director at the Orange Group's farewell dinner.

 

Day 18 - Estonia to Helsinki

Monday, May 20, 2013 

 

We had to leave lovely Estonia behind and head today for Helsinki via ferry across the Gulf of Finland.  Our bus took our luggage while we lolled about, shopping and eating during the two-hour crossing (huge ferry).  Our program director doesn't believe in letting his group loll in the hotel though so soon we were off for a Helsinki city tour.

 

The Temppeliaukio Kirkko (Rock Church) was completed in 1969.  It is built entirely underground and has a ceiling made of copper wire.

 

Rock Church organ

 A glimpse of its copper ceiling, which is made of winding cords of copper wiring.  The acoustics are extraordinary.

 

 The Sibelius Monument in Sibelius Park is dedicated to Finnish composer Jean Sibelius (1865–1957). 

 

A bucolic scene despite the many tourists in the park.

Day 17 - Tallinn and Magic

Sunday, May 19, 2013



 

Today we learned about Estonian village life by visiting a collection of preserved buildings and a visit to a working dairy farm, complete with lunch comprised of its products.

 



 Rocca al Mare Tour

 

A lonely calf who only wants her mother -- she bawled the whole time we were there

The dairy farmer -- his "horsepower" consisted of many tractors in this barn

 

In the evening, we were treated to a magical unscheduled tour of an unusual monastery.  It is staffed by a Ukranian monk who believes in peace among all living things (plants, animals, humans).  He created everything inside, including show-and-tell items with accompanying stories.  One was a stick with two talking bird heads (his version of marriage counseling, I believe, based on the running conversation he gave between them).  

 

The "vestibule"

 

 His campaign to stamp out smoking -- lighting fire for a cigarette by rubbing sticks together

Day 16 Tallinn, Estonia

Sat., May 18, 2013

 

Located in the Baltic region of northern Europe, Tallinn is the capital of Estonia and its largest city.  Estonia has a 10,000 year, complicated history with Scandinavian and Germanic roots.  Its official languages are Estonian and Finnish.  It has a stable, thriving economy and is part of the European Union with euros as its currency.

 

Soviet Russia occupied Estonia from WW II to 1991.  On the way to Tallinn, our Program Director showed a movie about Estonia's success in gaining its independence 1989-91 through the "Singing Revolution."  Today, one must pass a rigorous naturalization test to become an Estonian citizen, which includes speaking the language. 

 

In addition to an overview, we explored Old Town, which is encircled by city walls, remaining much as when built in the 1200's by Danes.

 

Birthplace of the Singing Revolution 

 

Paul with Composer Gustav Ernesaks at the Song Festival Grounds 

St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church

 

Toompea Fortress with Estonian flag

 

Vintage weather vane

 

 Lunch at a medieval restaurant where there is no lighting inside but great (expensive) food

 

 Relaxing at the Hotel Euroopa

 

 

Day 15 - St. Petersburg to Estonia

Friday, May 17, 2013

 

Today we traveled by bus from St. Petersburg, Russia to Tallinn, Estonia.  The trip took about six hours.  Evgeny was ecstatic that we were in a good slot.  He told us although buses trump trucks, trucks sometimes have to wait in line up to three days to pass through customs!

 

Scene at the Narva customs crossing

 

View of Jaanilin Castle from top of Hermann Castle

 

While we had about 20-30 minutes after clearing customs, I dashed to the top of Hermann Castle.  Little did I realize how far up (and back down) it was!  I got into big trouble with Paul for being five minutes late getting back to the bus, but the view was worth it.

 

Paul got sick on the bus (second time sick on this trip).  Luckily, this round lasted less than 24 hours.  Not so luckily, at least four others became ill in the next few days.

 



 

 

 

Day 14 - The Music School

Thurs., May 16, 2013

Initially, Grand Circle Foundation found it hard to find a school in Russia that wanted to accept its support.  According to our guide, Russians don't understand the concept of "charity."  However, Grand Circle didn't give up so easily in its quest to share its generosity in the St. Petersburg area and started calling local schools, simply going down the list in the proverbial phone book.

Eventually, the company found a local music school that serves as a boarding school for children from what we'd call first grade through high school.  Exactly how they are chosen is not clear, but all must show an aptitude for music.

A portion of the funds for Grand Circle tours to Russia go to support this school.  Today, the children put on a two hour performance for all tour participants.  Like kids everywhere, they may have to be coaxed into starting, but once doing it, they really enjoy showing off!

The orchestra

 

Russian folk music

 

Day 13 - Catherine Palace, Swan Lake

Wed., May 15, 2013

This is a fully packed day... Catherine's Palace, Disembarkation Briefing, briefing on the post-trip, dinner, and then the ballet.  How will I ever stay awake through the end?  I surprise myself.

The palace is associated with Catherine the Great's name, but it was actually begun and constructed by Catherine I and daughter, starting in 1717.  Catherine the Great thought it old-fashioned and extravagant.  It fell out of and into use, almost being destroyed by the Germans in WW II. 

Views of Catherine's Palace

 





 From the back
 

The gardens



Thank goodness I read the synopsis on the bus to the theater.  Swan Lake was composed in 1875–1876 by Tchaikovsky (OK, I knew that much anyway).  It was fashioned on Russian folk tales and is the story of  a princess turned into a swan by an evil sorcerer's curse.

Here's my story though.  I was barely able to see anything below the waist at the Russian Folklore show the other night so I was determined to get a good seat at the ballet.  I had a good side seat but noticed all the good middle seats were reserved.  Just before the show started, the usher took up one remaining reserved sign and motioned ME to come to it!  I felt like Cinderella.  Everyone from Grand Circle noticed and were asking me for the next two days how I did that.  The sorcerer's curse was removed for the night, I guess.  Lucky me!



Day 12 - The Hermitage!

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Today is an exciting day.  Finally, our visit to The Hermitage arrives!  But first, we are treated to a canal tour, which normally would be an option but is included to make up for the lost Kizhi Island tour.  St. Petersburg is truly a beautiful city, whether by land, canal, or sea.

 

We are treated to lunch on the 2nd floor in the same elegant surroundings as housed the Russian Folklore show.  (Remember those 80+ steps?  Well, they haven't gotten shorter, and the ladies room is on the first floor.)

 

 

At last we arrive at The Hermitage.  We have a wonderful local guide, and she couldn't get over the fact we seem to be in a lucky slot.  She says it never happens that her tours aren't surrounded by hundreds of others.  We get to linger just a few minutes longer at each spot and pause where normally we'd have to hurry through.

 

The Hermitage was founded by Catherine the Great in 1764 to house the three million artifacts she collected.  It is the largest collection of paintings in the world.  Only a small portion of the museum is open to the public. 

 

The Throne of Russian Kings

 

Michelangelo's The Crouch Boy

 

 Rembrandt's The Prodigal Son

 

It is said that if one pauses in front of each item for only a minute, it would take over forty years to complete the tour!

 

Tonight is the Captain's Farewell Dinner, given a couple of days early in order not to rush.

(Paul is recuperating from a 24-hour bug here)

 

New friends and tablemates - Payette's (L), Tkal's (R)

 





 









Day 11 - Peter & Paul Fortress, Peterhof

Monday, May 13, 2013

Peter and Paul Fortress, St. Petersburg's first structure, was built in the early 1700's by Peter the Great.  It never served as a fortress but has been a military base, governmental home, a jail for prominent political prisoners, and is the burial ground of the Russian Imperial family, including Czar Nicholas II.

The cathedral

 

Peter (the Great, stylized version) and Paul

 

While Paul went back to the ship, I opted for the tour of Peterhof.  This is Peter the Great's Summer Palace (called the Russian Versailles) that he used coming and going to and from Europe.  Peter seems to have a great sense of humor; he delighted in luring guests to some of the hundreds of fountains (all operating just on gravity), tricking them into getting wet!   A photographer's paradise!

 

 

 

 

The Grand Cascade

 

 

 

 

 

View from the Grand Cascade

 

Day 10 - St. Petersburg, Russia (Mother's Day)

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Finally, today we arrive in the "other" St. Petersburg, the home city of our program director, who isn't shy about extolling his love for it.  When Peter the Great laid it out in the 1700's, he wanted a Venice of the North.  As Evgeny says, "Wow!"  This St. Petersburg has as many canals and bridges as ours and traffic is worse, but it's worth adding to anyone's bucket list.

Church of the Spilled Blood - Did you know what we call "onion domes" are meant to represent candle flames?

 



St. Isaac's Cathedral
 

St. Isacc's dome

 

Today was Mother's Day.  Program Director Evgeny did a first and invited his mother to join us.  He interviewed her and interpreted.  She misses the old ways under Communism, when things were stable; she works three jobs now, having lost a business in the 90's under capitalism; her marriage with Evgeny's father suffered from the cramped space they lived in with her parents and divorced; her greatest accomplishment is Evgeny, an only child!  He said he was only interpreting, not putting words into her mouth :)

 



 Evgeny is a 29 year-old newlywed who has a penchant for American slang and sayings.  One of his favorites: "Ready, steady, go!"
 

As a trade-off for having missed Kizhi, we were treated to a Russian Folklore performance.  The penalty was having to go up (and down) 80+ stairs.  Russia is not handicap friendly, but the show was outstanding!







Day 9 - Svirstroy

Saturday, May 11, 2013

Today is a much anticipated event, a home visit to a local babushka.  She is an 86 year-old mother with lots of stories to tell about being a teen in WW II.  She lives here with her daughter in a four-plex given to her by the government.  The mother has everyday worries such as who will fix a leaking roof, while her daughter is more upbeat and a big fan of Nicholas Cage!

More cramped space than what it appears

 

Four-plex, but looks are deceiving on the outside; much repair needed on inside

 

Tourists' shopping area in Svirstroy
 

A small chapel nearby